NOBLE ROT MAGAZINE
For those who like their 1982 Lafite with a side of cheek. These self proclaimed “winos with attitude” pull back the curtain on the toniest of domaines, the wildest of winemakers, and the most rampant of restaurant trends. Issue 26 considers the history (and present) of Iranian wine and, if you’ve been searching for it, a recipe for Meursault Soup.
A well-worn wine-trade legend involves a venerable merchant being asked when they last mistook Bordeaux for Burgundy. “Not since lunchtime” is their answer. Loved by some and reviled by many, the often-ignominious art of blind tasting – AKA trying to identify a wine without seeing the label – comes under the spotlight in the new issue of Noble Rot.
Also in this issue…
... interview king of interviewers Louis Theroux and disco queen Róisín Murphy. We find ourselves dancing to the tune of Theroux’s wiggle wiggle while Murphy tells Noble Rot agony uncle John Niven about her love of food over a pre-gig supper.
...travel to Andalusia to meet some of Sherry’s most exciting new winemakers, and profile Jura Yellow Wine, Emilia-Romagna’s Denavolo, Cretan wine, and Barbacàn, the Instagram dance sensations busting a move on Valtellina’s vertiginous slopes.
...hear about Pulp’s Jarvis Cocker ‘Greatest Meal’ at New York’s The Four Seasons.
...Elsewhere, Marina O’Loughlin wishes chefs would stay in the kitchen, comedian Isy Suttie tells us how she found her passion for wine at Oddbins, Alice Feiring tells us why she’s not having ‘mouse taint’,
...Robert Walters reflects on two pivotal vintages for Champagne, and Henry Harris professes his love for andouillette – France’s stinky sausage. Somebody open the windows!
Published 28th February 2022
Greetings Earthlings, and welcome to Noble Rot 28, a cosmic new collection of writing about wine, food and culture.
In this issue…
…we interview intergalactically acclaimed physicist Professor Brian Cox and punk-poet laureate John Cooper Clarke. Cox blows our tiny minds moving effortlessly between explaining that black holes are made of curved space and time and his passion for Chardonnay, while the ‘Good Doctor’ Cooper Clarke whisks Noble Rot’s Suzanne Moore away on an epic extended lunch.
…we travel to northwest Italy to meet some of Piedmont’s most exciting new winemakers, and profile Gattinara in Alto Piemonte.
…we reprise Rotters’ ‘New Food and Wine Dictionary’ from Noble Rot 14 with fresh contributions from Brian Eno, Angela Hartnett and Ed Balls et al
...we discover which birth year wines have been highs and lows for NBA legend Dwyane Wade, Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson, among others, and hear about Fay Maschler’s ‘Greatest Meal’ in Greece.
Meanwhile, our anti-social agony uncle John Niven reports on LA’s food scene, Marina O’Loughlin tells us why she HATES brunch, and we feature stories and recipes about Coteaux Champenois, hell-raising restaurateur Peter Langham, poulet à la mode de Charolles, why food and sex should never mix, and how to improvise a serviceable cheese board from your corner shop.
In this issue… …
we present the definitive wine lover’s guide to truffles, with tips from Kermit Lynch, Clare Smyth, Brett Graham and Carlotta Rinaldi (whose interstellar Barolo is fêted by our raving truffle pigs on the cover).
…meet some of Burgundy’s most exciting new domaines and winemakers, including Charles Lachaux of Arnoux-Lachaux and Domaine Dandelion.
… interview novelist Irvine Welsh, who reminisces about his little-known stint as a wine columnist for Marmalade magazine (Typical headline: “We boozy Brits are bananas for bubbly”), a near-death experience in a Californian swimming pool, and the positive effects of European immigration on British food culture before you-know-what.
… take a post-lockdown tour of Paris’ best restaurants and wine bars, including Septime and Parcelles. The last time we wrote a guide to the City of Light was back in autumn 2014 (Noble Rot 6), after which we returned to London inspired to start our own place. This time around, we look at how many venues have made it through the challenges of the last 18 months, and what is new on the scene.
…hear about Diana Henry’s ‘Greatest Ever Meal’ at Moscow’s White Rabbit.
Meanwhile, we offer our usual quota of wide eyed wine and food wonderment, including Fay Maschler on cooking for dull people, Simon Hopkinson’s game bird accompaniments, Jon Bonné on the other side of Bordeaux, plus stories and profiles about Condrieu, pét nat, saltiness in wine, nobs spraying Champagne in nightclubs, the lost art of the savoury, and the obscure world of chicken Kiev Facebook groups, among much more. Someone’s gotta do it.
THE DIFFICULT SECOND ALBUM
Published 18th March 2020*
Introducing the the cork poppin’, gut bustin’, merry makin’ new issue of Noble Rot magazine...
In this issue:
...we spotlight the wines of Catalonia and Jurançon, as well as Burgundy’s often under-appreciated Aligoté. From Els Jelepins and Pepe Raventos to Sylvain Pataille and the uber-cult Clos Joliette, we tell the stories behind some of Europe’s most exciting domaines
...we meet the ‘hedonist in the cellar’, novelist and wine writer Jay McInerney
...we travel to Épernay to taste a bottle of 1895 Pol Roger recently excavated from the site of the domaine’s historic 1900 cellar collapse, and ask how wines age.
...we take a retrospective look at 150 years of Soho restaurant culture, and Suzanne Moore celebrates Greek St’s famous Gay Hussar. Notorious in its day for being the lair of many a plotting politician, it will re-open as Noble Rot Soho in late-spring 2020
...we feature stories about Ballymaloe Cookery School, the 30th anniversary of Marco Pierre White’s White Heat and Emilia Romagna gastronomy, as well as reviews, recipes and musings from Simon Hopkinson, Marina O’Loughlin, Alastair Little, Andrew Jefford, Stephen Harris, Tom Brown, Russell Norman, Rowley Leigh, George Reynolds, Zeren Wilson, Simon J Woolf, Nina Caplan, Henry Harris, Morgan Dunn and John Niven, among much more...